Hats

Braid and ribbon

According to the Russian custom, Siberian girls braided their hair in one braid. It was decorated with plaits – bright ribbons or colored strips of fabric. They tied the head with a long wide strip of cloth ("bandage"), leaving the top of the head open. During the wedding ceremony, the girl's braid was unwound and her hair was hidden under a headscarf, which was the headdress of a married woman.


Handkerchief

A headscarf served as a married woman's everyday headdress. A triangular-shaped handkerchief (oblique handkerchief) is called a "kerchief". Only her husband was allowed to see the woman's hair. Therefore, a woman appearing in public with her hair down, available for public viewing, was perceived as a harlot, or as a witch. A woman was forbidden to walk around bareheaded during a thunderstorm – thunder would kill.

Uncovered female hair, according to popular beliefs, could be harmful to the household. A married woman without a scarf could not bake, cook, milk a cow, etc. – "the brownie does not like."
A lot of superstitions are associated with a scarf, for example, if a woman dreamed that she lost a scarf, or it was torn off her head by the wind, then she is destined to become a widow. To put a handkerchief inside out on a woman's head is to be beaten.


Shawl

The headdress of the elderly women was a shawl. Explaining this concept, the expert on the Russian language V.I. Dahl gives the following definition: "A shawl is a long shawl on the shoulders, a double shawl."


Shamshura

Shamshura was a special headdress. In the "Explanatory Dictionary ..." by V.I. Dahl, several definitions of this word are given. In the Northeastern regions of Russia, shamshura was called a woman's undercoat, a hairpiece, a cap under a scarf and a kokoshnik. In the Russian North, this is a women's warm winter hat. In Siberia, it was called kokoshnik or povoynik.

Men’s hats of the Siberian Tatars

The men’s hats of the Siberian Tatars can be divided into summer and winter. Winter hats are round "Tatar" hats and "Russian" hats with earflaps. The "Tatar" hats were deep and covered the ears. They were sewn mainly from the fur of a hare, wolf or sheepskin, sometimes covered with a dense non-woven fabric.

On holidays, hats made of green, red, blue or black velvet, fringed with fur, were worn. The rich Tatars used the fur of lynx, marten, otter, beaver, wolverine, badger and fox for this purpose.

Hats with earflaps were sewn from the fur of a hare, wolves, sheepskin with fur inside, and the frontal part and ears with fur outside. Hats with earflaps could be naked or covered with cloth or thick cotton fabric.

The name "summer hats" is conditional, as they were worn constantly, both in summer and winter under warm hats. Most often, such hats were called "skullcaps", and the Tatars considered this name to be Russian. In Tatar, such hats were called "kabets" ("kabets", "kabech"). They were sewn from velvet, corduroy of various colors — black, blue, red, brown, green. Skullcaps were decorated with embroidery with silk or cotton threads. The ornament was floral in the form of twigs and curls.

At the beginning of the twentieth century under the influence of urban culture in the Tatar environment, men began to wear felt hats and caps. These hats were called "Russian".


Women’s hats of the Siberian Tatars

In everyday life, married women wore headscarves. Women’s festive hats — hats "kalfak" (round flat, shaped like a man’s headdress). There were also women’s round hats with a top in the form of a shlyk, which hung freely back or sideways. Hats were made of red, green, blue or purple velvet and decorated with embroidery with gold threads, sequins and beads. The kalfak was also worn by girls, and women threw a shawl over it. Another female headdress is a sarautz headband in the form of a rectangular or segmental stripe of colored velvet with a gold stripe or braid, it was fastened from behind. A shawl was also thrown over the sarauts. Women wore "yaulykh" shawls all the time, tying them in various ways. Shawls were also worn — down and silk. In winter, they wore velvet hats with fur trim — "tahya". Sometimes they could wear it under and over a handkerchief.

According to S.K. Patkanov’s observation, at the end of the XIX century Tatars wore round hats with a blunt end in winter and summer. They were made of cloth, with fur and with a small border of fox or goat fur. A yarmulke ("arakchin", "kapets") was worn under a hat on a clean-shaven head. White and green turbans were worn by clerics, mullahs and some venerable elders.

Winter hats are round "Tatar" hats and "Russian" hats with earflaps. The "Tatar" hats were deep and covered the ears. They were sewn mainly from the fur of a hare, wolf or sheepskin, sometimes covered with a dense non-woven fabric. Hats with earflaps were sewn from hare fur, wolves, sheepskin furs inside, with the frontal part and ears with fur outside. Hats with earflaps could be naked or covered with cloth or thick cotton fabric.

On holidays, hats of green, red, blue or black velvet, fringed with fur, were worn. The rich Tatars used the fur of lynx, marten, otter, beaver, wolverine, badger and fox for this purpose.

Khanty and Mansi in winter, the heads were covered with a three-piece sewn from two deer skins, one of which was turned with wool inside and the other out.

Russian old-timers wore a round hat in winter, which was called a "tatarka" or a traditional hat with earflaps. Wealthy peasants bought expensive hats made of sable, marten, and beaver fur for the holidays.